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May/June 2008 Issue 138
2006 Viader: Good deep red-ruby. Subdued but rip nose offers cassis, black plum, bitter chocolate, rose petal and sexy oak spices. Bigger, broader and lusher than most past vintages of this bottling, with rich, smooth flavors of dark plum and bitter chocolate. For all its weight (this is clearly a larger-scaled wine than the 2005), it managers to retain a light touch. Finishes with big, broad, rich tannins that reach the teeth. Still a bit youthfully musclebound but built for a slow and positive evolution in the bottle. This was the first vintage to be vinified by Alan Viader, who does a longer maceration than previously and makes greater use of delestage to aerate the must and extract color and flavor. The flagship wine was macerated for 45-50 days in both ’06 and ’07. 91-94.
2006 Viader “V”: Good red-ruby. Currant, pepper, licorice, rose petal and nutty oak on the nose, plus a light meaty nuance. Supple, broad and juicy but not at all sweet. Nicely ripe, pure flavors of blackberry, bitter cherry and violet. This shows less of the leafy quality of the 2005 version. Elegantly styled wine, finishing with good breadth and a lingering flavor of bitter cherry. 90-92.
2006 Viader Syrah: Good full ruby-red. Bitter cherry and licorice on the nose; a bit less animal than the 2005, which I preferred on this most recent tasting (I scored it 90 points this time, vs. 88 a year ago). Juicy if a bit rigid in the mouth, offering flavors of bitter cherry, dark chocolate, minerals and mint. Finishes fresh and leafy, with rather polite varietal character. This reminded me of a drier-styled St. Joseph. 88.
2006 Dare Cabernet Franc: Dark red. Spicy aromas of bitter cherry, flowers, licorice and menthol. Juicy and intense, with a creamy quality and lovely aromatic lift to its flavors of bitter cherry and flowers. Finishes perfumed and persistent, with rather suave tannins. A lovely cabernet franc bottling. (I preferred this wine to the drier ’05, which I scored 90 points a year ago, but 89 in March.) 90.
2006 Dare Cabernet Sauvignon: Good deep red-ruby. Cassis, flowers, menthol and dusty, nutty oak on the nose. Sweet but serious, with the middle palate currently dominated by the wine’s firms structure. This distinctly claret-like wine finishes with substantial, slightly tough tannins and a primary medicinal character 89(+?).
2006 Dare Tempranillo: Good deep red. Aromas of bitter cherry, mocha, mint and flowers. Juicy and firmly built, with a medicinal cast to its flavors of bitter cherry and spices. Finishes with substantial, palate-dusting tannins and good breadth. Perhaps a tad sweeter than the 2005 example. 88.